There’s something about the work of some designers that is distinctive, architectural, and striking in a way that makes you feel like it should be displayed in a museum. And while that’s most definitely a compliment, a lot of avant garde fashion isn’t exactly wearable in the real world.
Avant-Garde Fashion
However, this season we’ve seen quite a bit of inspiration drawn from the more avant garde looks of the recent past, especially Japanese designers like Rei Kawakubo, Yohji Yamamoto and Issey Miyake.
While these pieces have some of the drama of the source material, they are a bit more wearable and possibly even practical for real life.
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How To Go Avant-Garde
Origami Coats
Coats and jackets with significant volume and dramatic neck and shoulder details showed up on runways, often with some sharply tailored masculine elements. For instance, this Donna Karan coat fits the bill—and will still look chic next winter (and the winter after that. Prefer a trench? Try this oversize twill style from Banana Republic.
Exaggerated Sleeves
Another way this trend shows up is tops with plenty of volume in the sleeves, whether it’s a wide kimono style, oversize bell shapes, or a lantern shape. Try this flowy option from Anthropologie or this more tailored look from Aggi by Halewski via Wolf & Badger.
Avant-Garde Oversize Shoulders
The padded shoulder is back, especially for suiting and blazers. This look can be fun to play with, especially if you want to draw the eye upwards and balance your lower half. While some versions can be a little too 80s redux for our comfort, we do enjoy sleeker options like this chocolate colored one by The Frankie Shop or the belted number by Norma Kamali.
Barrel Leg Trousers
Think barrel leg jeans but all grown up, done in fluid fabrics or even linen, sik, or taffeta like this bronze style from Chan Luu. Or get the look for a steal with this pair from ASOS DESIGN—they’re under $50.
Pleats Upon Pleats
Of course, there’s almost no discussion of Japanese fashion without mentioning the intricate pleats and folds used by many of the most notable designers. Knife pleats and complicated workmanship are another way to channel this inspiration. Invest in the original with an Issey Miyake dress (we love this black and white one from Yoox, but you can also find Issey Miyake or Pleats Please pieces on resale sites). Or go with an homage like this linen dress from Metamorphoza via Wolf & Badger.
Note that most styles that push the envelope often work best in black, white or solid neutrals like taupe, browns and grays. Or if you love color and print, opt for strong primary hues and geometric prints.
Do you love some designers or labels that make looks that are clearly meant for the runway (or a gallery)? Do those pieces inspire how you dress, or are you content to just admire from afar? Would you wear any of these pieces or those silhouettes in real life? Let us know in the comments.
–Jacqueline Zenn
You may also like to read more of Jacqui’s fashion tips like What Is A Cocktail Dress And Why You Really Need One and Trendspotting Fashion and Beauty in Japan: How To Get The Look.
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